***
SS18; Major Moment | Oscar de la Renta
It isn’t easy when a house loses its founder…
…especially when it’s one as influential as Oscar de la Renta.
De la Renta’s passing in October 2014 pushed the label toward new creative direction in the form of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, both trained directly under the founder himself.
However, as much training as the duo received – they still seem to be finding their footing, navigating a house with codes so established, and dare I say traditional.
Of course, it depends on how one views the transition between creative directors.
Does one:
-maintain the brand’s signature, honoring the founder, tweaking minimally to update silhouettes and fabrics?
-reject the codes completely and put one’s OWN take on what they believe the root of the house to be?
-or, find the balance between the two, modernizing the classics to keep up with the ever-changing fashion arena?
Balance is a hard thing to find, especially when there is the pressure of the industry eyes on you but, Kim and Garcia seem to be leaning towards the lattermost option.
How does one keep the touch of such a celebrated and loved designer, while still updating the brand to appeal to a changing consumer?
The pair has done it almost literally, taking inspiration from handwritten letters from de la Renta, thank you notes from starlets he has dressed, and maybe more superficially – pop art.
This is a new label.
It’s true, Mr. De la Renta wouldn’t have been so brazen with his motifs.
But they weren’t so far off.
“I like things full of color and vibrant.” – Oscar de la Renta
Uber graphic looks with paintbrush splatters and large sequined letters, any outsider can see a difference in design between this collection and one from the founder [see here].
But, is that such a bad thing?
From a creative point-of-view, the collection was a little in-between.
The clothes were a bit more street; less delicate, more accessible if you will – jeans, t-shirts, even an anorak – scrawled with writing, splotches, and bright colors.
However, there were still those signature Oscar-isms – the staple tulle dresses, fur, and patchwork gowns.
On the other hand, from a consumer point-of-view, there is much to delight in with this collection.
Lots of versatile, mix-and-match pieces that any millennial would love to own.
Uptown chic with downtown cool?
Kim and Garcia are, after all, appealing to this more modern demographic.
Give them time, I’m sure they’ll figure it out.
See the rest of the collection here.
Enjoy!
xx
***