SS18; Major Moment | Calvin Klein
Big Review of the day #2!
And of course, it’s no surprise that it is Raf Simons’ Calvin Klein show appears on my list of NYFWSEPT17 Major Moments.
This is Raf’s second season at the established American house, and he seems to be batting two for two.
…somehow a cliché baseball reference seemed fitting?
The Fall collection saw Simons lean toward uber-American tropes in the form of diner uniforms and cowboys.
Spring 2018, however, while staying true to the American aesthetic, took root in horror movies and cheerleaders.
Seemingly unrelated, a quick look through any horror movie catalog will see the character portrayed, not only as a metaphor for Americana but also as a permanent and archetypal fixture in the movie genre.
Simons, and his creative right hand – Pieter Mulier – have become known for intellectual takes and layered approaches to their inspiration. And of course, being Europeans [specifically Belgians] in an American setting gives them fresh eyes with which to approach these motifs.
On the collection, Simons stated that he had become attracted to film and television – Game of Thrones being a current obsessed, due to his perception that the creative teams associated had ‘freedom.’
The freedom to create and the freedom to express, something he feels the fashion industry is lacking.
And he may not be entirely wrong.
His view? The idea that fashion plays too much into the spectators’ expectations to the point where sales and analytics and statistics become the focus and end up stifling creativity.
His reaction? To create a fashionable take on this dystopian view of the industry.
The scene was set at 205 West 39th Street, Calvin Klein’s longtime address. Guests strolled beneath artist Sterling Ruby’s latest exhibition – a series of brightly colored and exaggerated pompoms and banners reminiscent of a bright and cheery high school – dotted with axes, a grim break from the fun and frivolity of the Ruby showcase.
The show notes highlighted the theme: “American horror, American dreams,”; the duality of the great U.S.
Maybe a reflection of Raf’s own feelings toward his move across the pond?
But Simons has always been a very cerebral designer. So, even if you didn’t feel the uneasiness of the intended fears, you saw it.
The juxtaposition between the suburban-esque pieces and the morbid artwork of Warhol’s “Death and Disaster” created a compelling and provocative collection.
And of course he took risks; would it be a Simons collection without?
Taking traditionally couture silhouettes, he fashioned gorgeous clothing from the unlikeliest of materials – waterproof nylon typically used for camping tents [another reference to U.S. culture] and yarn fringe.
It really should be no surprise that this is a standout collection: –
Artistically cohesive? Check!
Wow factor? Definite!
[I mean those fringe dresses, come on?]
Seems like Simons is the one doing the shaking up. Other designers should be wary cause Calvin Klein by Raf Simons seems to be one label to look out for
See the rest of the collection here.